PHOTOS: Steam, spice and history in Namdaemun Market's Galchi Golmok

By Han Jun-gu Posted : May 15, 2025, 17:04 Updated : May 15, 2025, 17:27
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Customers eat hairtail fish stew at the Hairtail Alley in Namdaemun Market Seoul on May 12 2025 AJP Han Jun-gu
Spicy braised hairtail stew, May 12, 2025/ AJP Han Jun-gu

SEOUL, May 15 (AJP) - On a warm weekday afternoon in late spring, the labyrinthine corridors of Namdaemun Market remain as lively as ever.

Tucked amid its maze of narrow passageways and densely packed storefronts lies a culinary enclave devoted to a single dish: braised hairtail fish. The cluster of small restaurants is devoted entirely to the preparation of spicy hairtail stew.

The roots of Galchi Golmok (Hairtail Alley) stretch back to the late 1980s, when a handful of merchants began offering the stew at modest prices. Word of its bold flavors — and its generous portions — spread quickly, bolstered by glowing features on local television. By the early 1990s, the alley had become a destination in its own right.

Visitors arriving from the market entrance near Namdaemun Gate are greeted by a yellow sign bearing the image of a smiling, chef-hatted hairtail — the unofficial mascot of the alley. Just beyond, a dim corridor opens up, barely lit save for a string of overhead fixtures and the soft glow of restaurant signs.

The scent of the place announces itself before anything else: rich, red broth simmering with chili and garlic, the smoky aroma of grilled fish, and the comforting smell of steamed eggs. Many of the restaurants station their cooking operations outside, creating a kind of open-air kitchen effect that pulls passersby in.

Inside, tables are closely set and meals arrive bubbling hot. There is little ceremony — just the hum of conversation, clinking of spoons, and the occasional hiss from a stew pot.

In a city where new food trends surface by the week, this alley stands as a quiet reminder of enduring tastes — and the power of tradition to draw a crowd, even on an ordinary afternoon.
 
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Namdaemun Market AJP Han Jun-gu
Namdaemun Market/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Customers line up at the Hairtail Alley in Namdaemun Market Seoul on May 12 2025 AJP Han Jun-gu
Galchi Golmok (Hairtail Alley) in Namdaemun Market/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Entrance to Hairtail Alley in Namdaemun Market AJP Han Jun-gu
The entrance to Galchi Golmok/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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A restaurant merchant cooks hairtail fish stew at the Hairtail Alley in Namdaemun Market Seoul on May 12 2025 AJP Han Jun-gu
Galchi Golmok/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Hairtail alley in Namdaemun market AJP Han Jun-gu
Galchi Golmok/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Hairtail fish stew AJP Han Jun-gu
Hairtail fish stew/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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A restaurant merchant cooks rice at the Hairtail alley in Namdaemun market Seoul on May 12 2025 AJP Han Jun-gu
Galchi Golmok/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Fried hairtail fish AJP Han jun-gu
Fried hairtail fish/ AJP Han jun-gu
 
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Grilled fish AJP Han Jun-gu
Grilled fish/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Hairtail fish stew and steamed egg AJP Han Jun-gu
Hairtail fish stew and steamed egg/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Earthen pots and steamed egg AJP Han Jun-gu
Earthen pots and steamed egg/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Steamed egg AJP Han Jun-gu
Steamed egg/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Hairtail fish stew AJP Han Jun-gu
Hairtail fish stew/ AJP Han Jun-gu
 
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Hairtail fish stew meal set AJP Han Jun-gu
Hairtail fish stew meal set/ AJP Han Jun-gu
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