SEOUL, June 02 (AJP) - In a market as vast and bustling as Namdaemun, one of Seoul’s oldest and busiest commercial hubs, the true culinary treasures are often hidden in plain sight.
Tucked into narrow passageways and behind unmarked corners are food alleys that many visitors — and even seasoned locals — walk past without noticing.
One such enclave is Kalguksu Alley, a humble yet vibrant corridor that feels worlds away from the souvenir stalls and wholesale clothing shops just steps outside. This reporter, a frequent visitor to Namdaemun Market, had to consult the information desk to locate the alley — a testament to its elusive charm.
The entrance is easy to miss: a modest yellow sign reading “Kalguksu Alley” wedged between two buildings near Hoehyeon Station. But those who follow it are rewarded with a surprising sight — a 30-meter-long alley lined tightly with about 30 eateries, all dishing up variations of kalguksu, a handmade knife-cut noodle soup, along with boribap (barley rice), sujebi (hand-torn noodle soup), sticky rice, and naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles).
The draw isn’t just the food — it’s the value. Order a single bowl of kalguksu, and you’ll receive two or three other dishes, often including a modest helping of bibimbap and naengmyeon, at no additional charge. It’s this unspoken generosity that packs the alley shoulder-to-shoulder with diners during lunch hours, often from noon to 3 p.m.
Each restaurant is a model of compact efficiency: open kitchens line the walls, while tightly packed tables sit just inches from sizzling pots and chopping boards.
The setup may be cramped, but it offers a front-row view of the action — fresh dough being kneaded, noodles cut and boiled, and vegetables chopped seconds before they’re plated. Many of the dishes are prepared entirely by hand, and with the right timing, diners can witness the full noodle-making process before it arrives at their table.
For those seeking a quieter experience, an early or late lunch offers respite from the crowds — and the chance to linger and observe.
Namdaemun Market has long been a place to shop for everything from textiles to kitchenware, but for the food-inclined traveler, Kalguksu Alley offers something more enduring: a flavorful slice of Seoul’s culinary tradition, served with warmth, speed, and no small measure of authenticity.
reporter
Han Jun-gu
jungu141298@ajupress.com
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