TRAVEL: General's Tomb and the Gwanggaeto Stele

By Han Jun-gu Posted : July 24, 2025, 16:37 Updated : July 24, 2025, 16:49
장군총 2025년 6월 29일 AJP Han Jun-gu
General’s Tomb in Ji'an, Jilin Province, China. Jun. 29, 2025 / AJP Han Jun-gu

Ji'an, July 24 (AJP) -  Located in Ji'an, Jilin Province, China, the General's Tomb is a Goguryeo-era stepped stone pyramid made of large, reddish-beige rectangular blocks stacked to the height of a five-story apartment building. With the exception of some blackened patches on the stone surface, it looked almost like a newly built structure. Only the topmost stones showed signs of slight damage or disalignment, a remarkable testament to the tomb’s endurance over the centuries. Its impressive height gives the illusion of the tomb reaching into the sky, with no trees visible behind it from any angle.
 
장군총과 호분석 AJP Han Jun-gu
General’s Tomb and the ho-bun stone formations / AJP Han Jun-gu
Surrounding the tomb were massive rocks lying against it as if supporting the mound with their weight. Positioned in groups of three on each side, they appear to be gripping the tomb's base with giant fingers. These are known as ho-bun-seok, or protective boundary stones. In a mound-style stone tomb like this, the structure's weight is concentrated at the base, creating immense lateral pressure. The ho-bun stones prevent the bottom stones from being pushed outward. The entire tomb is constructed from granite, both inside and out. It is the only known example of a complete chukseokbun (stepped stone tomb) and follows a design style that cannot be found anywhere else in China. While many believe the General’s Tomb is that of King Jangsu of Goguryeo (394–491, reigned 412–491), differing views persist in South Korea and no definitive conclusion has been reached.
 
장군총의 호분석 옆으로 지나가는 관광객들 사람이 있으면 비로소 크기를 체감할 수 있다 AJP Han-gu
Tourists passing by the ho-bun stones. The tomb's scale becomes clear only in contrast with people. / AJP Han Jun-gu
About 1.5 kilometers (0.9 miles) from the General's Tomb stands the Gwanggaeto Stele, erected in 414 by King Jangsu in honor of his father King Gwanggaeto (374–412, reigned 391–412). Enclosed in a glass pavilion, the massive natural stone pillar stands approximately 6.39 meters tall. The width of its four sides varies from 1.38 to 2.00 meters, and its thickness ranges from 1.35 to 1.46 meters. Carved into its granite surfaces are 1,775 Chinese characters, though about 150 are difficult to decipher. The inscriptions primarily recount Goguryeo's history and the accomplishments of King Gwanggaeto, making the stele a crucial source for historical research. Standing in front of it, one is struck by its towering height and the overwhelming presence of a kingdom that once commanded the Manchurian plains.
 
중국 지린성 지안시에 위치한 광개토대왕릉비 AJP Han Jun-gu
Gwanggaeto Stele in Ji'an, Jilin Province, China / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
유리벽으로 된 보호각을 설치한 광개토대왕릉비 AJP Han Jun-gu
Gwanggaeto Stele housed within a glass pavilion / AJP Han Jun-gu
Roughly 300 meters from the stele lies the Gwanggaeto Tomb. From a distance, it appears to be a natural hill. Covered with thick greenery, the massive mound stands alone in the open plain. But as one approaches, it becomes clear that the formation is man-made. Beneath the earth, scattered stones of all sizes reveal its structure. White clover flowers spread across the fields in front of the tomb like snow. Their delicate bloom between the grasses created a quiet, serene beauty. Rising beyond this tranquil scene, the Gwanggaeto Tomb stands tall even after 1,600 years. Its sheer scale is not apparent from afar, but the people standing atop it appear tiny, like ants. Imagining the number of stones and manpower needed to construct it offers a glimpse into Goguryeo’s national strength and King Gwanggaeto's stature.
 
중국 지린성 지안시에 위치한 광개토대왕릉비 AJP Han Jun-gu
Gwanggaeto Tomb in Ji'an, Jilin Province, China / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
광개토대왕릉 AJP Han Jun-gu
Gwanggaeto Tomb / AJP Han Jun-gu
These three sites offer tangible proof that Goguryeo was once a powerful force in Northeast Asia. Ji'an, where they are located, was home to Gungnae Fortress, Goguryeo’s second capital, and served as the kingdom’s political and cultural hub for around 400 years. Today, they are designated UNESCO World Cultural Heritage sites, recognized for their global value but also at the center of complex historical debates between China and South Korea.
 
광개토대왕릉 무덤의 입구 AJP Han Jun-gu
Entrance to the Gwanggaeto Tomb / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
장군총으로 가는 입구에 장수왕릉 세계문화유산이라고 적혀있다 AJP Han Jun-gu
Sign reading 'World Heritage Site: Tomb of King Jangsu' at the entrance to General’s Tomb / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
광개토대왕릉비로 가는 입구 AJP Han Jun-gu
Entrance to Gwanggaeto Stele / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
장군총 1호 동반무덤 AJP Han Jun-gu
Companion Tomb No. 1 beside General’s Tomb / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
광개토대왕릉으로 올라가는 길 아무런 제재하거나 감시하는 사람이 없어 문화유산이 훼손되기 쉽다 AJP Han Jun-gu
Trail leading to Gwanggaeto Tomb. With no personnel to guard or restrict access, the site remains vulnerable to damage. / AJP Han Jun-gu
 
광개토대왕릉비 AJP Han Jun-gu
Gwanggaeto Stele / AJP Han Jun-gu
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