TRAVEL: Tracing a thousand years of history at Jikjisa Temple

김천 직지사 — A stream runs through the temple grounds, with stepping stones across the water. AJP Cho Bo-hee

GIMCHEON, August 29 (AJP) - Jikjisa Temple in Gimcheon, North Gyeongsang Province, is a thousand-year-old monastery that embodies both spiritual and historical significance. Founded in 418 by the monk Ado, who came from Goguryeo before Buddhism was even recognized as a state religion in Silla, the temple has long stood as a symbol of resilience. During the Japanese invasions of the late 16th century, it was here that Buddhist monk soldiers rallied under the leadership of Venerable Samyeong, who later crossed to Japan after the war to rescue more than 3,000 Korean captives.

The temple’s historic weight is matched by the harmony of its architecture and natural surroundings. To reach the main Daeungjeon Hall, visitors pass through a sequence of four gates—Iljumun, Daeyangmun, Geumgangmun, and Cheonwangmun—before arriving at Manseru Pavilion. Beyond lies a sprawling complex of more than 40 buildings, including 14 major halls, each with distinct designs and interiors. Among the highlights is a garden arranged in the shape of the Huayeom Ilseung Beopgye-do, a symbolic Buddhist diagram created by the Silla monk Uisang. The flowerbed maze is meant to guide visitors through the principles of Dharma, symbolizing the rediscovery of one’s inner Buddha-nature.

Daeungjeon Hall itself is a striking sight. Though destroyed during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1735 and still carries an aura of antiquity. Behind its Buddha statues rests the “Three Assemblies of Sakyamuni” painting, completed in 1744 during the reign of King Yeongjo. Nearly 300 years old, the painting was elevated to National Treasure status in December 2024, admired for its vivid green tones and its calming presence.

The path from Daeungjeon to Birojeon Hall is shaded by maple trees, turning brilliant red in autumn and making it one of Gimcheon’s top 10 scenic spots. Even in summer, the trees provide a cool refuge. In front of Daeungjeon, visitors rub the belly of the Budai statue or the feet of the Avalokitesvara statue near Samyeonggak, where the worn surfaces show countless hands seeking blessings. Birojeon itself, with its floral lattice windows, resembles a hall blooming with carved flowers. Nearby stands Hwangakru Pavilion, where visitors can rest upstairs and look out over the temple grounds framed by forested hills.

Crossing a stone bridge toward Geungnakjeon Hall reveals a mountain stream flowing year-round, a picture framed by pines and rocks. At the uppermost corner of the temple sits Cheonbulam Hermitage, where visitors can sit on the Wansimdang veranda and listen to the sound of water mingling with the wind. Nearby, a traditional teahouse offers a place of quiet rest.

At the temple entrance lies Jikji Culture Park, dotted with sculptures, stone inscriptions, and a fountain that dances to music. Nearby, Samyeong Park honors the monk-general’s patriotism, its landmark Peace Pagoda modeled after the nine-story wooden pagoda of Hwangnyongsa Temple. At night, the pagoda glows with lights, its reflection shimmering across a wide pond. Close by are the Gimcheon City Museum and the Gimcheon World Ceramic Museum, offering cultural extensions to the temple visit.

Around the entrance, traditional Korean restaurants serve set meals of hot stone pot rice with 20 or more side dishes, attracting diners from surrounding cities. Visitors also find unique details across the grounds: a maze-shaped mineral spring, walls of tiled roofs and stonework that show the passage of centuries, and sculpted guardians at the temple gates.

Cho Bo-hee jobo@ajupress.com