PHOTOS: Journey back to Joseon in heart of Seoul, Buam-dong's Mok-in Museum

By Han Jun-gu Posted : September 5, 2025, 15:10 Updated : September 5, 2025, 15:10
서울시 종로구에 위치한 목인박물관에 전시된 문인석 AJP Han Jun-gu
Stone scholar statues on display at the Mok-in Museum in Jongno-gu, Seoul. AJP Han Jun-gu

SEOUL, September 05 (AJP) - Tucked away in the quiet residential neighborhood of Buam-dong, Jongno-gu, the Mok-in Museum Mokseokwon feels like a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. The first sight upon entering is the outdoor exhibition garden, where more than 800 stone carvings are spread across the grounds. Large and small statues stand at every corner, evoking the atmosphere of a Joseon-era stone mason’s workshop. Scholar statues and childlike figures appear to meet the visitor’s gaze no matter which direction one turns. Paths and stairways guide guests to different vantage points, allowing the entire garden to be viewed from multiple angles.

 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu

Below the outdoor space, the underground exhibition hall holds the museum’s most striking collection: more than 12,000 wooden figurines. Descending the stairs feels like stepping into another world, mysterious and slightly eerie. Under soft lighting, row upon row of carved wooden figures stand in dense formation, each with a unique face and posture. Some carry objects on their heads, others brandish swords mid-swing, while some appear dressed for a wedding with colorful hanbok and painted cheeks. Many carry playful or satirical expressions, grinning broadly or pulling mischievous smiles.
 
목인박물관에 전시된 상여와 목인 AJP Han Jun-gu
Funeral bier and wooden guardian figures on display at the Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu

Among the most memorable displays are the funeral bier decorations. The bier, once used to carry the deceased, is flanked by wooden guardians standing tall and upright, believed to guide souls safely to the afterlife. These were not merely decorative objects but reflections of ancestral beliefs and spirituality. Looking closely, one sees the fine workmanship of past artisans—the carved folds of clothing, the contours of faces, and the details etched into wood. Comparing figurines from different regions highlights distinct local characteristics, adding another layer of interest.
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu

In one corner of the outdoor garden, roof tiles once used in traditional architecture are displayed. Known as maksae giwa, these decorative end tiles were believed to ward off misfortune and invite blessings. Each tile carries its own expressive design, as if ancient guardians once perched on rooftops have gathered here. Another gallery showcases Haiju white porcelain from the late Joseon era, produced in Hwanghae Province. Their simple yet elegant forms glow under subtle lighting, distinct from Chinese porcelain. Especially striking are the pieces adorned with Hangul inscriptions rather than the more common Chinese characters. From painted animals to written phrases, the collection reveals the essence of Joseon-era ceramics.
 
목인박물관에 전시된 막새기와 AJP Han Jun-gu
Decorative roof tiles from traditional Korean architecture. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관에 전시된 해주백자 AJP Han Jun-gu
Haiju white porcelain displayed at the Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관에 전시된 전통항아리 AJP Han Jun-gu
Traditional Korean jars on the rooftop garden of the Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu

The rooftop garden offers sweeping views of Seoul’s skyline and the ridges of Bukhansan Mountain. Arranged across the terrace are large traditional jars, some painted, some dented or overturned, glowing softly in the sunlight against the green backdrop. It is a harmonious blend of folk art and natural scenery, offering visitors the feeling of a time slip into Korea’s past at the edge of a modern city.

Leaving Mokseokwon, it is clear this museum holds meaning far beyond its collections. The 12,000 wooden figures, 800 stone sculptures, roof tiles, jars, and porcelains are all time capsules carved and shaped by ancestors. They preserve everyday life, faith, and creativity, carried forward through art into the present.
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관에 전시된 해주백자 AJP Han Jun-gu
Haiju white porcelain at the Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
상여의 상단 앞 뒤에 부착하는 반원형의 판인 용수판 AJP Han Jun-gu
Dragon panels that were once attached to the front and back of a funeral bier. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
서울시 종로구 부암동의 목인박물관 AJP Han Jun-gu
Mok-in Museum in Buam-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. AJP Han Jun-gu
 
목인박물관의 지도 AJP Han Jun-gu
Map of the Mok-in Museum. AJP Han Jun-gu
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