Journalist
Han Jun-gu, Park Sae-jin
jungu141298@ajupress.com
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PHOTOS: Namdaemun's hidden alley serving up noodles, hospitality — and history SEOUL, June 02 (AJP) - In a market as vast and bustling as Namdaemun, one of Seoul’s oldest and busiest commercial hubs, the true culinary treasures are often hidden in plain sight. Tucked into narrow passageways and behind unmarked corners are food alleys that many visitors — and even seasoned locals — walk past without noticing. One such enclave is Kalguksu Alley, a humble yet vibrant corridor that feels worlds away from the souvenir stalls and wholesale clothing shops just steps outside. This reporter, a frequent visitor to Namdaemun Market, had to consult the information desk to locate the alley — a testament to its elusive charm. The entrance is easy to miss: a modest yellow sign reading “Kalguksu Alley” wedged between two buildings near Hoehyeon Station. But those who follow it are rewarded with a surprising sight — a 30-meter-long alley lined tightly with about 30 eateries, all dishing up variations of kalguksu, a handmade knife-cut noodle soup, along with boribap (barley rice), sujebi (hand-torn noodle soup), sticky rice, and naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles). The draw isn’t just the food — it’s the value. Order a single bowl of kalguksu, and you’ll receive two or three other dishes, often including a modest helping of bibimbap and naengmyeon, at no additional charge. It’s this unspoken generosity that packs the alley shoulder-to-shoulder with diners during lunch hours, often from noon to 3 p.m. Each restaurant is a model of compact efficiency: open kitchens line the walls, while tightly packed tables sit just inches from sizzling pots and chopping boards. The setup may be cramped, but it offers a front-row view of the action — fresh dough being kneaded, noodles cut and boiled, and vegetables chopped seconds before they’re plated. Many of the dishes are prepared entirely by hand, and with the right timing, diners can witness the full noodle-making process before it arrives at their table. For those seeking a quieter experience, an early or late lunch offers respite from the crowds — and the chance to linger and observe. Namdaemun Market has long been a place to shop for everything from textiles to kitchenware, but for the food-inclined traveler, Kalguksu Alley offers something more enduring: a flavorful slice of Seoul’s culinary tradition, served with warmth, speed, and no small measure of authenticity. 2025-06-05 14:43:10 -
PHOTOS: Second day of early voting underway after previous day's record turnout SEOUL, May 30 (AJP) - The second day of early voting for next week's presidential election is underway at some 3,568 polling stations nationwide on Friday, following a record turnout of 20.41 percent the previous day. Since it was first introduced on a nationwide basis in 2014, early voting has allowed eligible voters who cannot vote on election day to cast their ballots in advance. Some 44.39 million voters aged 18 and above can cast their ballots at any polling station across the country, regardless of their registered addresses, with a valid ID. Voting hours run from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. As the June 3 snap election follows the premature ouster of President Yoon Suk Yeol over his botched martial law debacle late last year, polling stations will remain open for two additional hours until 8 p.m. 2025-05-30 13:55:44 -
PHOTOS: Inside high-speed delivery culture of Dongdaemun fashion district SEOUL, May 22 (AJP) - In the warren-like alleys of Dongdaemun Shopping Complex, Seoul’s sprawling wholesale fashion hub, a unique culture built on speed has quietly defined the rhythm of commerce for decades. Here, the hum of motorcycles and the shuffle of small delivery trucks are as much a part of the landscape as bolts of fabric and sequins glinting in warehouse light. For more than 40 years, Dongdaemun has operated not just as a wholesale marketplace, but as a vital artery in South Korea’s fashion industry, where retailers, manufacturers and online sellers rely on its famed quick delivery service — a vast, hyper-efficient system designed to meet the demands of a city where traffic is relentless and time is money. Navigating congested roads, drivers — often on scooters or compact trucks — deliver goods ranging from textiles and zippers to trousseau items and garment accessories. Speed is essential. A rider may balance towering parcels of fabric on a scooter, the bulky loads held together with netting or straps. The demographic of these drivers is shifting. Once dominated by men in their 40s and older, the scene changed during the COVID-19 pandemic. As food delivery apps surged in popularity, young riders in their 20s and 30s entered the labor market. When that boom faded post-pandemic, many pivoted into quick delivery work, bringing new energy to a system showing signs of strain. Despite the influx of younger drivers, the marketplace they serve is shrinking. Over the past five years, the number of wholesale and retail workers in Dongdaemun has steadily declined, as has the volume of consumers utilizing its services. These days, even in the early afternoon — traditionally the peak period for dispatch — idle motorcycles sit lined up in tight rows, their riders staring at smartphones, waiting for the next job to appear. The nature of the work leaves little room for leisure. Sit-down restaurants are scarce near the motorcycle lots. Instead, riders grab meals from food stalls or convenience stores, favoring items that can be eaten quickly: spicy tteokbokki, fish cakes skewered in broth, or pre-packaged hamburgers. Roadside coffee and beverage stands once offered a brief reprieve — but like the business itself, they too are beginning to disappear. 2025-05-22 15:17:59 -
PHOTOS: Steam, spice and history in Namdaemun Market's Galchi Golmok SEOUL, May 15 (AJP) - On a warm weekday afternoon in late spring, the labyrinthine corridors of Namdaemun Market remain as lively as ever. Tucked amid its maze of narrow passageways and densely packed storefronts lies a culinary enclave devoted to a single dish: braised hairtail fish. The cluster of small restaurants is devoted entirely to the preparation of spicy hairtail stew. The roots of Galchi Golmok (Hairtail Alley) stretch back to the late 1980s, when a handful of merchants began offering the stew at modest prices. Word of its bold flavors — and its generous portions — spread quickly, bolstered by glowing features on local television. By the early 1990s, the alley had become a destination in its own right. Visitors arriving from the market entrance near Namdaemun Gate are greeted by a yellow sign bearing the image of a smiling, chef-hatted hairtail — the unofficial mascot of the alley. Just beyond, a dim corridor opens up, barely lit save for a string of overhead fixtures and the soft glow of restaurant signs. The scent of the place announces itself before anything else: rich, red broth simmering with chili and garlic, the smoky aroma of grilled fish, and the comforting smell of steamed eggs. Many of the restaurants station their cooking operations outside, creating a kind of open-air kitchen effect that pulls passersby in. Inside, tables are closely set and meals arrive bubbling hot. There is little ceremony — just the hum of conversation, clinking of spoons, and the occasional hiss from a stew pot. In a city where new food trends surface by the week, this alley stands as a quiet reminder of enduring tastes — and the power of tradition to draw a crowd, even on an ordinary afternoon. 2025-05-15 17:04:17 -
PHOTOS: Royal ancestral Jongmyo Daeje ritual resumes after six-year pause SEOUL, May 07 (AJP) - On May 4, the royal ancestral rite known as Jongmyo Daeje was held at Jongmyo Shrine in central Seoul. Recognized as the most significant and solemn ritual of its kind, Jongmyo Daeje was conducted for the first time in six years and unfolded in grand fashion beneath clear skies. Built in 1394 by King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, Jongmyo is the official royal shrine where the spirits of past kings and queens are enshrined. Spanning 200,545 square meters, the complex consists of the Main Hall (Jeongjeon), Yeongnyeongjeon, Jeonsacheong, and Hyangdaecheong. More than a sacred space for rites, Jongmyo served as a powerful symbol of the Joseon dynasty’s religious and political identity. Today, 27 former kings are honored there. Jongmyo Daeje is a comprehensive ritual that fuses courtly elegance with traditional dance and music. Its cultural significance earned it a place on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2001. While the rite was historically performed five times a year—in spring, summer, fall, winter, and at year’s end—it is now held twice annually: on the first Sunday of May and the first Saturday of November. The Main Hall, where the ceremony is held, is accessed via two sets of stone steps. Upon ascending the first stairway and passing through the entrance, visitors are met with a vast ceremonial courtyard that evokes reverence and awe as they face the ancestral spirits of past monarchs. At the heart of the ritual is Jongmyo Jeryeak, a blend of instrumental music, song, and dance performed during the ceremony. Designated as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 1964, the performance on this day featured a visually striking ensemble: 64 dancers dressed in red performed the solemn Ilmu, accompanied by 80 court musicians and 320 ceremonial officials, making up a total of 464 participants. 2025-05-07 14:57:50 -
PHOTOS: 'Virus,' a tale of infection and irresistible love, set for May 7 release SEOUL, April 30 (AJP) - The cast and crew of the upcoming film "Virus" convened for a press screening and conference on April 28 at CGV Yongsan ahead of its May 7 release. Director Kang Yi-kwan appeared alongside stars Bae Doo-na, Kim Yun-seok and Chang Ki-ha to discuss the film, which explores the unsettling spread of the fictional “Toxo Virus” — a pathogen that causes its victims to fall into irrational, fatal love. Virus centers on the journey of a protagonist who, after becoming infected, is swept into an unlikely alliance with three men: a novice researcher, a long-lost classmate, and a lone scientist with the expertise to develop a cure. Together, they navigate a harrowing path shaped by urgency, emotion and the specter of certain death. 2025-04-30 10:08:03 -
VISUALS: Lanterns, festivities herald Buddha's Birthday SEOUL, April 24 (AJP) - Jogyesa Temple, a prominent Buddhist center in the heart of Seoul, is abuzz with preparations for Buddha’s Birthday on May 5, 2025. The temple grounds are currently festooned with a multitude of colorful lanterns, each inscribed with the names of devotees, creating a vibrant canopy overhead. This spectacle has drawn an increased number of visitors and tourists, who come to offer prayers or simply find respite in the dappled shade cast by the illuminated decorations. A series of events commemorating Buddha’s birth is scheduled to take place from April 26 through May 5, encompassing lantern parades, traditional cultural performances, and solemn Buddhist rituals. Jogyesa Temple in Jongno, Seoul, May 4, 2025/ AJP Han Jun-gu 2025-04-24 14:32:51 -
PHOTOS: Cherry blossoms at Seoul's Seokchon Lake SEOUL, April 15 (AJP) - A frothy canopy of pale pink and white has enveloped the walking paths encircling Seokchon Lake, transforming the popular Jamsil district into a springtime idyll. The full bloom of cherry blossoms has arrived, casting a delicate beauty over the waters and drawing throngs of visitors to the renowned scenic spot. 2025-04-15 14:44:19 -
PHOTOS: Tug-of-war ritual in Dangjin seeks unity, blessings SEOUL, April 15 (AJP) - From April 10 to 13, Dangjin in South Chungcheong Province reverberated with the rhythmic chants and straining muscles of thousands gathered for the annual Gijisi tug-of-war festival, a vibrant tradition that transcends mere sport. Designated as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2015, the Gijisi tug-of-war is deeply rooted in agricultural ritual, a communal prayer for a bountiful harvest and protection against calamities. The scale of the Gijisi event is its most striking feature. Two immense ropes, each stretching 100 meters, are conjoined to create a 200-meter behemoth with a diameter exceeding one meter. So vast are these central cords that an adult seated atop would find their feet dangling above the ground. Numerous smaller ropes, like thick vines, sprout from the main cables, providing handholds for the throngs of participants representing different villages. Before the spirited contest commences on a broad expanse of open ground, a solemn rope ritual known as "Julgosa" unfolds. Ceremonial tables laden with offerings are arranged at the head of the massive rope. Here, prayers are offered for a safe and successful event. In a distinctive element of the ceremony, alcohol is reverently presented to the tug-of-war rope itself. Following the ritual, the coiled thinner ropes are unfurled and meticulously reattached to the main cable. Then, in a lively procession called "Gilnori," locals and visitors unite to transport the weighty rope from its place of creation to the competition grounds. Leaders, perched atop the colossal cords, wave flags and sound signaling devices, their calls of "euiyeocha" echoing through the crowd. The tug-of-war itself is more than a test of strength; it fosters a profound sense of unity and camaraderie, nurturing hometown pride and embodying both recreational joy and deep spiritual aspirations. An enduring belief associated with the Gijisi tug-of-war holds that the victor’s side foretells national peace, while the opposing triumph promises a prosperous harvest and abundance for all. The festival stands as a testament to the cooperative spirit and solidarity of traditional rural Korean society, seamlessly blending elements of Confucianism, Buddhism, and shamanism into a unique folk religious event. The Gijisi tug-of-war, with the enthusiastic participation of entire villages, is a living cultural heritage that vividly illustrates the enduring community spirit of Korea’s agricultural past. 2025-04-15 14:36:46 -
PHOTOS: Crime thriller 'Yadang: The Snitch' to hit theaters next week SEOUL, April 09 (AJP) - The press screening and media conference for the upcoming crime action film Yadang: The Snitch took place on April 7 at Megabox COEX. Yadang: The Snitch delves into South Korea’s underground drug trade, weaving a tense narrative around three central figures: Yadang, a cunning broker who architects the nation’s illicit drug market; a driven prosecutor eager to climb the professional ladder; and a relentless detective who has devoted his career to dismantling the narcotics underworld. The film, which promises a gritty portrayal of ambition, betrayal, and justice, is slated to hit theaters nationwide on April 16. 2025-04-09 14:05:18