TRAVEL: Finding solace at temple high on mountain

By Cho Bo-hee Posted : November 6, 2025, 17:00 Updated : November 6, 2025, 17:00
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Cheongnyangsa Temple in Bonghwa, North Gyeongsang Province/ AJP Cho Bo-hee

BONGHWA, November 06 (AJP) - I recently undertook a stay at Cheongnyangsa Temple in Bonghwa, North Gyeongsang Province. The experience was an immersion in a landscape and a tradition that demands both effort and reward.

While Cheongnyangsan Mountain may not be among Korea’s highest peaks, its rugged, sheer cliffs and dramatic stone pinnacles deliver an astonishingly grand and theatrical scene.

Cheongnyangsa is strategically built halfway up the mountain, meaning your journey begins with a test of endurance. From the parking lot, it's a strenuous 30-minute climb up a steep path. Be warned: for those unaccustomed to mountain walking, simply reaching the temple can feel like a major feat.

But the reward is instant. Looking down from the temple grounds, the view is nothing short of breathtaking: the temple buildings are perfectly framed by peaks alight with the deep reds and golds of late autumn foliage. It’s a vista that elicits an involuntary gasp of wonder.

The Temple Stay itself is a structured cultural program designed to allow visitors to briefly experience the life of a monastic practitioner. My itinerary included a temple pilgrimage, Buddhist ritual, circling the pagoda, a peaceful free walk, and, most powerfully, the striking of the temple bell.

The resonant tolling of the massive bell just after sunset, echoing through the now-silent mountain sanctuary, was an unforgettable, first-time experience. It carried a solemn weight — a sacred rhythm that compelled deep introspection. A single night at Cheongnyangsa offered a precious opportunity for self-reflection amidst the cool, crisp air of the autumn woods.

The dramatic scenery extends far beyond the main temple. A further 30-minute hike up the trail leads to Eungjinjeon retreat. This sacred annex is a marvel, appearing to hang precariously from the cliff face, backed by colossal rock formations. Encircled by flaming red maple trees and capped by the clear blue autumn sky, Eungjinjeon is arguably the most poignant spot to soak in Cheongnyangsan’s seasonal beauty.

For the ultimate panorama, a viewpoint about halfway up the trail offers a magnificent glimpse of the entire mountain range and the Cheongnyangsa Temple nestled peacefully in the valley below.
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple was built halfway up Cheongnyangsan Mountain. AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Early morning view of Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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A monk hits the bell in Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Healing mind and body at Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee

Keep pushing onward, and you’ll find a remarkable piece of engineering. After about an hour of climbing a steep trail, you reach the Sky Bridge. This 90-meter-long, 70-meter-high suspension bridge connects the Jaranbong and Seonhakbong Peaks at an altitude of 800 meters. Standing on the bridge, connecting these two formidable peaks, I felt fully immersed in the brilliant, fiery climax of the late autumn mountainside.

The Temple Stay is a cherished traditional cultural experience that offers a glimpse into the history and spiritual culture of Korean Buddhism. Operating in 158 temples across South Korea, the program has become a highly popular method for weary modern citizens to heal the mind and body.

Last year, the program hit an all-time high, hosting over 332,000 participants. The Temple Stay's appeal is also soaring internationally, with 31 temples now specializing in foreign visitors and employing dedicated language staff.

Temples are currently offering a 50 percent discount on Temple Stay participation fees throughout the month of November — a perfect chance to experience this unique blend of spirituality and rugged natural beauty.
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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The Sky Bridge at Cheongnyangsan Mountain/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Apples waiting for harvest/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Buddhist ritual/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Pagoda at Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple at night/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple at night/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
 
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Cheongnyangsa Temple at night/ AJP Cho Bo-hee
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