What is the most enduring language in international politics? It is neither military might nor financial power. Sometimes, it is a bowl of noodles, a piece of roasted duck, or a cup of tea. China has understood this for a long time. As Confucius stated in the "Analects," "Rituals value harmony" (禮之用 和爲貴), Chinese civilization has long read its counterparts and adjusted relationships at the dining table before resorting to swords.
During President Donald Trump's visit to Beijing, China once again showcased the essence of 'food diplomacy.' The final lunch menu presented by President Xi Jinping surprisingly featured Kung Pao Chicken, a Sichuan dish, rather than an extravagant imperial meal. At first glance, it appears to be a simple dish, but in Chinese diplomacy, food is never just food; it is a code and a message.
Kung Pao Chicken is one of the most deeply rooted Chinese dishes in American society. It originated from Chinese laborers who brought it to the United States in the 19th century while working on railroads, in mines, and on farms. Its spicy yet familiar flavor has become a symbol of American Chinese cuisine. China chose to serve this dish to President Trump.
An interesting linguistic play also emerged. Trump's name in Chinese is 'Chuanfu' (川普), while Sichuan cuisine is referred to as 'Chuan Cai' (川菜). This reflects China's unique cultural code of ambiguity, cleverly juxtaposing Trump's blunt political style with the bold flavors of Sichuan cuisine. The menu for the state dinner exemplified the meticulous nature of China's 'food diplomacy.' It was not merely a display of traditional Chinese dishes; it incorporated elements of Chinese identity while considering President Trump's tastes, American preferences, and Western dining culture.
The state dinner on May 14 at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing included Peking Duck, a dish that symbolizes Chinese tradition and imperial culture. Known for its crispy skin and tender meat, Peking Duck is a staple at state banquets for foreign leaders and represents the pride of Beijing.
Other dishes included Cantonese Lobster Soup, crispy beef, and slow-cooked salmon with mustard sauce. Additionally, Chinese-style crispy dumplings, shell-shaped pastries, and Italian tiramisu were served.
The menu was highly symbolic. Peking Duck represented China's tradition and imperial culture, while the Cantonese seafood dish signified openness and internationalism. The salmon with mustard sauce catered to Western tastes, and the tiramisu naturally connected to European sensibilities. The meal harmoniously blended Eastern and Western flavors without conflict. The dining table effectively reflected the current state of U.S.-China relations: competitive yet coexisting, conflicting yet unable to completely turn away from each other.
The atmosphere at the dinner was also carefully curated. The music featured a mix of American and Chinese songs. When the song 'YMCA,' frequently used by Trump during his campaign, played, diplomats noted that "China thoroughly researched Trump's personal political style and preferences." This was a typical example of Chinese hospitality aimed at honoring the guest's pride and narrowing psychological distances.
Sun Tzu's "Art of War" states, "The best victory is to win without fighting" (上兵伐謀). Chinese diplomacy sometimes designs dinner menus more intricately than missile strategies. Interestingly, this food diplomacy is not limited to Trump.
Earlier this year, when South Korean President Lee Jae-myung visited China, President Xi personally recommended Beijing-style Jajangmyeon at the state dinner. Unlike the sweet black bean noodles familiar to Koreans, this version was a salty and light dish typical of Northern China. Xi reportedly said, "Try this and see how it differs from Korean Jajangmyeon."
That remark was not merely a joke. Jajangmyeon originally came from Shandong laborers who brought it to Incheon and Seoul. However, it has since transformed into a completely different cultural dish in Korea. China recognizes this. In other words, Jajangmyeon represents a shared cultural memory between China and Korea amid conflict and competition. Xi placed that memory on the dining table.
When welcoming Russian President Vladimir Putin, the menu changes again. China has shown a tendency to favor hearty Northern dishes rich in meat and flavor for Russian leaders. Smoked duck, lamb dishes, stir-fried seafood, and rich broth-based foods frequently appear. Additionally, vodka and Chinese baijiu (白酒) are served together. This is not merely hospitality; it symbolizes the "bond between continental powers."
In fact, the dining settings for China-Russia summits often symbolize the Eurasian order. The emphasis is on meat rather than seafood, and the robust flavors of Northern cuisine are highlighted over the delicate Cantonese dishes. This indicates that China views Russia not as a 'maritime power' but as part of the same continental civilization.
When French President Emmanuel Macron visited Beijing, the atmosphere shifted again. France considers food itself a part of its national identity. China emphasized Cantonese seafood and wine pairings to highlight delicacy and artistry. It naturally connected French wine with Chinese tea culture, and the dessert selection leaned more towards European styles. This conveyed the message that "China is not just a factory but a civilized nation." Macron, well-versed in cultural diplomacy through the Louvre and Versailles, was accurately understood by China.
Dinners with German chancellors tend to be more practical. Germany values order, balance, and stability over extravagance. Therefore, China often presents relatively simple and structured courses rather than overly stimulating or decorative dishes. Typical offerings include light fish dishes, health-focused mushroom and vegetable meals, and restrained desserts. This reflects a dining experience of "trust and stability" tailored to Germany's industrial and manufacturing characteristics.
In reality, food in Chinese diplomacy is not merely about hospitality. It is a vast narrative where history, civilization, economy, strategy, psychology, and symbolism all operate simultaneously. For 5,000 years, China has been a 'civilization at the crossroads.' By welcoming merchants, envoys, monks, and armies along the Silk Road, China developed the skill of understanding its counterparts. And at the center of this has always been food.
The "Tao Te Ching" states, "A great nation remains low" (大國者下流), meaning that a strong country must embrace others. China sometimes seeks to embody this philosophy at the dinner table. Of course, the reality of U.S.-China relations is far from romantic. Strategic competition over semiconductors, AI, Taiwan, the South China Sea, and tariffs is becoming increasingly intense. However, it is interesting that even conflicting nations strive to respect each other's cultures at the dining table.
Trump enjoys Peking Duck, President Lee tastes Beijing-style Jajangmyeon, Putin indulges in Chinese lamb, Macron savors Chinese tea, and the German chancellor sits down to a light Cantonese fish dish. International politics is ultimately a human endeavor. And humans remember best when they share a meal together. Perhaps the world order is subtly shifting not at the summit table but in the banquet hall behind it.
Between a plate of Kung Pao Chicken and a bowl of Jajangmyeon, the world quietly negotiates today.
* This article has been translated by AI.
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