The portrayal of North Korea in the news often presents two faces: expressionless or overly joyful. People are seen applauding with teary eyes at the gestures of Kim Jong Un or standing with tense, rigid expressions. These depictions feel somewhat artificial.
However, the faces of North Korea encountered at the National Folk Museum in Jongno, Seoul, on August 11 were different. They rolled their eyes, pouted, and appeared comical, ready to tease someone. Instead of hiding their expressions in the face of authority, they laughed and mocked freely. Their faces seemed eager to jest and criticize.
The special exhibition 'ZERO: Encountering North Korea through Folklore,' which opens on August 12 and runs until February 14, 2027, showcases 316 pieces of folk materials from the North Korean region before liberation. The exhibition features masks from the Bongsan Mask Dance, Haeju jars, traditional cabinets, and records related to Mount Kumgang.
This exhibition brings to light an often-forgotten truth: that 'our' folk culture is also the folk culture of 'North Korea,' encompassing regions like Kaesong, Hwanghae-do, Pyongan-do, and Hamgyeong-do. It speaks of a culture that, while now distant, was once close—indeed, one on the Korean Peninsula.
What captures attention are the masks. The exhibition includes masks from the Bongsan Mask Dance, Bukcheong Lion Dance, Gangnyeong Mask Dance, and Haeju Mask Dance. These masks mock the hypocrisy of authority figures, twisting the world with humor and wit. Such expressions are unimaginable in today's North Korea, where everyone stands and applauds in unison at the slightest gesture from their leaders.
Once vibrant and dynamic, the lion mask, which once leaped and rolled across the North Korean land, now appears with a unique character. With a shaggy mane and bulging eyes, it looks either foolish or fierce, with various expressions that are hard to connect with the rigid image of North Korea today, defined by 'nuclear' issues.
However, as shamanism and fortune-telling content gain popularity, the 'Mushindo' displayed in the exhibition reminds us of our shared heritage. Mushindo is a ceremonial painting used in shamanism to communicate with spirits. It offers a rare glimpse into the shamanistic traditions of North Korea, showcasing various deities that the people rely on, such as the guardian spirit of the village, the deity of fortune and longevity, and the deity of wisdom.
Is there still shamanism in North Korea, which claims to be socialist? A museum official confirmed, 'Yes, they are called 'fortune tellers' instead of shamans. The number of fortune tellers is on the rise. The State Security Department even hires powerful fortune tellers, and some who defect do so because they dislike this situation. They say their abilities helped them escape safely.'
In the center of the exhibition hall, 88 beautiful Haeju jars draw visitors' attention. These jars, combining the practicality of earthenware with the elegance of blue-and-white porcelain, are adorned with bold paintings of peonies, fish, and chrysanthemums. Selected from a collection of 232 Haeju jars donated by Kim Ui-gwang, director of the Mokin Museum, each jar features unique patterns and shapes, reflecting the desire of people to keep beauty close.
Visitors can also see the Bakcheon traditional cabinet and small Haeju table, which have never been displayed outside the storage room before. These items carry the scent of human touch and everyday life.
If you wish to see the 'people' behind the rigid faces of North Korea—those who laugh, play, and cherish beauty—this exhibition is highly recommended.
The exhibition runs from August 12, 2026, to February 14, 2027, at the National Folk Museum's special exhibition hall 1.
* This article has been translated by AI.
Copyright ⓒ Aju Press All rights reserved.